Market Violence

Soldiers patrol a market in Pattani, in southern Thailand, where more than 3,500 people have been killed in an insurgency since 2004. More than 90 people died and 200 were injured in a car bombing that ruptured a market Wednesday in Peshawar, Pakistan. As the BBC reports, “The market mostly sells products for women, and […]

The Situation Down South

Thai soldiers patrol a market in Pattani. Do you know about the trouble in Thailand? I ask the question because when I talk with friends and family in America, I find many people who know little to nothing about it. Even journalists who work at newspapers say their only knowledge is the occasional blurb that […]

Local Chicken Soup

For three years, I’ve had a nose for it. I’d been searching for a local chicken soup recipe all that time, though I didn’t know it. In 2004, on a trip through Kota Bharu in the Malaysian state of Kelantan, Jerry and I met a Muslim man from Ghana who showed us around. We met […]

Kao Yam

So what does one do with budu? One makes kao yam, of course. That’s one sensible, dependable option, anyway. “It’s the most nutritious dish,” Khun Wilaiwan says, “because there’s nothing fattening in it.” Veggies, herbs, budu, fish powder, coconut, a little chili, maybe a few noodles, all mixed together with blue rice. Blue rice? Ya, […]

Budu Budu

Budu. I love it. I just want to say the name again and again, really fast: Budubudubudubudu. Now wasn’t that fun? And what in the heck is budu? It’s that stuff in the bucket above, the black bubbly muck (eggs have nothing to do with budu, they just happened to be there on the table). […]


What’s left of my food souvenir habit We’ve returned to Chiang Mai after spending the week in Pattani, where a three-year insurgency has killed close to 2,000 people. Bombs burst every day, soldiers and government workers are attacked and civilians live in fear. Most incidents occur outside of Pattani town, in the countryside and other […]

Of Sushi, Insurgents and Cowboys

The night we spend in Bangkok, just before heading to Cambodia, our good friend Masaru (another photojournalist) invites us for sushi. His wife, Youme, has already gone to Aceh and Masaru is in Bangkok alone. He wants to cook. We arrive at his apartment and find a large white paper taped to the floor. On […]