End of Season

storm coming

Racing the storm, Krabi

The last days of October dawned gray and rainy. Every afternoon was sheathed in a musty, gloomy air. It was the end of the off-season, the last week before Thailand’s coastal resorts book solid for three straight months.

It was the perfect time for Krabi.

Granted, I had hoped for more sun and less muck. But then we might have had to share the Dawn of Happiness with far more guests. We might have missed the pleasure of a swing in a hammock on the beach, alone, as the tide thundered in and the moon shone through a break in the clouds.

digging for dinner

A construction worker searches for dinner at low tide

We slept in a bungalow with the sound of waves rushing toward our window. So loud, I awoke and peeked through the curtains. There it was: high tide, just a few feet away.

By day, we tested the ominous skies and kayaked the craggy coast. Had there been no rain that week, our free, borrowed kayak might have been occupied already. We would have missed the dip in aqua waters on a secluded beach. We would have missed the kingfishers and Pacific reef egrets and water monitors that crossed our path. Nothing compares with the view from a kayak. Alongside cliffs, under mangrove branches, through rocky passages — a kayak lends perspective no other vehicle can.

limestone cliff

The Krabi landscape

And surely, had there been no rain, we would not have dined alone on a beachside deck, sipping gin and tonic, eating spicy gaeng som with tender bamboo, one of many southern specialties.

Yes, the end of the low season is really the height of the high season for me. Those who visit Krabi now will find the sun — and heaps of other people. Instead, we found Krabi at her kindest, dressed in the dense green colors of jungle, swaddled in sweet air.

fishing grotto

Fishermen rest in a rock grotto

This was not meant to be 100 percent vacation, just 70 percent respite before we embark on two months of work. As you read this, Jerry should be in Calcutta (Kolkata) and I will soon follow on another flight. From there, our plans take us into the far northeastern Indian states, then all the way cross-country to Gujarat.

It might be a while before you hear word of these travels (then again, maybe not). But don’t go away! In the meantime, I will post a few goodies I’ve had on the backburner for some time. And then: all that India offers us, in good taste.

Happy travels, wherever you are.

Krabi crab

Krabi crab

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