Eggs on Climate Change

As many of you undoubtedly know, world leaders are meeting this week in Durban, South Africa, in another round of climate talks. Meanwhile, last week, Yale Environment 360 reported on the deaths of oyster larvae in the Pacific Northwest. It’s a climate change problem. As humanity pumps more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, the oceans […]

Bahston Chowdah! A Gluten-Free Seafood Odyssey

Boston I’m an amphibian in the desert. I’m always drawn to water. I love fish. But I don’t get much of either in Colorado or New Mexico. Occasionally I’ll treat myself to a piece of wild Alaskan salmon or a frozen package of some sustainable specimen that gets the Monterey Bay Aquarium OK. But mostly, […]

The Fish at the End of the Road

Valu Beach, below Tutuala, East Timor This is not here. This, above, is Valu Beach on the far tip of East Timor. “Here,” for me, right now, is Boulder, Colorado, beneath a fresh dump of snow. I could use a burst of Timorese warmth right now. I’m traveling to East Timor in mind tonight, thanks […]

ASK ME! Phuket eating

I am traveling to Phuket, Thailand, this month and was wondering if you have any recommended restaurants/cafes. Thank you for your assistance, and happy eating! –Emma, Sydney Emma, I admit it’s been a while since I’ve seen Phuket. I spent a month there while working on a Fodor’s update just before the tsunami hit in […]

Halong Bay

Fishing in the bay Just south of China in the far northeast corner of Vietnam is a bay of nearly 2,000 islands. It is in many ways the cradle of Vietnamese civilization, with an archaeological record 25,000 years old. Fishermen have lived on these islands and waters for millennia. Some villagers rarely set foot on […]

Sea Food

(Photos courtesy of Sharon Sites Adams) Sharon in her sailor’s suit Right about this time of year, 42 years ago, Sharon Sites Adams learned to sail. She loved her newfound hobby so much, she bought a boat and christened it the day before Thanksgiving. A few weeks later while writing Christmas cards in the harbor, […]

The Usual

The other day we had a little work in Kep, not at all a bad place to emerge for lunch. We went straight to the Thmor Da (the usual, the ordinary) restaurant in a little market strip that hangs over water’s edge. What you get here is indeed the usual, Kep-style, which is truly wonderful: […]

Dinner With the Swiss Man

Generally speaking, you’ll find the best Cambodian seafood at bright Khmer restaurants with plastic chairs and fold-up tables. I spot the Phnom Kamchay Thmey on a corner near the river in Kampot, and I know it will have good crab and shrimp. We go there with a Swiss man who has just driven a dirt […]

Dinner on the Beach

We’re at the Sea Dragon restaurant in Sihanoukville, just a few feet from the South China Sea. The waves lap against sand, and little kids pass through the restaurant, selling bracelets. That’s their job. Dozens of them do it every day, every night, making money for their parents to buy food, pay rent or send […]