Burmese Tea Leaf Salad

The latest edition of AFAR is on sale, and inside you will find our feature on the Burmese pickled tea leaf salad known as laphet thote. This is such an exuberant dish with hot, tangy, bitter, salty flavors that tingle every little nook of the mouth. If you’ve never had the opportunity to try laphet…Continue readingBurmese Tea Leaf Salad

One Tent, Two Bikes, a Basket of Blackberries and Lots of Fun

Our week has ended, the group has returned home to Yangon, and here I sit in the Denver airport. I’m bringing my parents to New Mexico for a few days, but we ended up on separate flights, and mine is delayed. They should be touching down in ABQ as I wait another three hours. So,…Continue readingOne Tent, Two Bikes, a Basket of Blackberries and Lots of Fun

The Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

I couldn’t resist. As soon as I read Nan San San Aye’s recipe for an aromatic mutton meatball curry, I knew it would be part of the next Rosi meal. Now, let’s get a couple of things straight. In Burma, “mutton balls” might very well mean goat testicle curry (which a friend recently referred to…Continue readingThe Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

The Rosi Recipes

We’re home! And we have a new member of the extended family. Meet Rosi, our darling niece. She loves to eat and burp and lots of other things—she’ll fit right into this crowd. Now, anyone out there with a 2-month-old knows the difficulty of the dinner hour. So I’ve decided to cook dinner once a…Continue readingThe Rosi Recipes

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: Arrested and Deported

We’ve been fielding calls and emails from around the world. Below is our official press release regarding our arrest and deportation: Monday, May 11, 2009 BANGKOK—The two of us were detained in Mandalay on the evening of Wednesday, May 6, and deported to Bangkok the following night. The arrest came within hours after we had…Continue readingFOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: Arrested and Deported

The Chip Women

This one goes out as an early birthday wish for Gary, fervent lover of The Chip. He prefers Kettle brand, but I find my favorites on Myanmar’s savory streets. We sat one afternoon in a Burmese tea shop when an old woman ran up with a plate of chips. “Here, here, eat!” We did, she…Continue readingThe Chip Women

Mohinga Update

Serving mohinga in Pathein Just a few days after we met the owners of Ancient House, we learned they would be leaving. Their small Siem Reap business couldn’t outlast the economic crisis, so they’ve decided to sell. If they get a decent price, perhaps they’ll go home. If not? Too many people are asking themselves…Continue readingMohinga Update

Burmese Guacamole

Avocado vendor, Mandalay “Karen, in your country, how do you eat avocados?” my newfound friend, Soe, asked me one day in Mandalay. I told him about guacamole with plenty of lime, chile, cilantro and salt. He laughed. “Here, we eat with sugar and condensed milk.” His comment brought back memories—fresh avocado slices sprinkled with sugar,…Continue readingBurmese Guacamole

Makin’ Crepes

We rise early to catch a cramped little bus to the beach. Just around the corner from the Pathein bus station is a small crepe factory with two rows of 12 griddles atop charcoal cookers. Three people work, as does an enormous mixer powered by a motor that turns a giant three-pronged blade. Black exhaust…Continue readingMakin’ Crepes

Brand Names, Baby

Lunch carriers for sale, Yangon sidewalkContinue readingBrand Names, Baby