Grilled Beef Wrapped in Wild Betel

I got a yen for wild betel in Vieng Xay, in a laid-back local market that sold an assortment of lunch pickings—sticky rice, sour bamboo, tangy dollops of jaeow, spicy little meatballs and grilled buffalo (above, middle, left of the balls) that had been mixed with onions and spices, wrapped in betel leaves and grilled […]

Whipped in Hanoi

Thanh Hoa dinner: fried tofu and tomato, green-leaf soup, nems, nuoc mam and rice That’s Whipped with a capital W, and that’s precisely how I feel. Let’s just say it was an insane serpentine 9-hour bus ride, up one mountain and down another, between Sam Neua (Laos) and Thanh Hoa (Vietnam). After a hotel run-around […]