Lao Sabai

? I remember the very first trip. It was August, which meant sticky days and a heat that swelled until the skies opened with a gush of rain. The rice paddies sparkled in a light I still can’t adequately describe. Radiant. Brilliant. Electric. Cliché. They were the very definition of green. It was our first…Continue readingLao Sabai

Big Soup, Big Love

I post this picture today in honor of Valentine’s Day, my husband and the animated life we have created together. I know he’s missing travel as much as I am right now, so here’s a little reminder. This is about the biggest noodle soup we’ve ever encountered, anywhere. It’s served with a smile at the…Continue readingBig Soup, Big Love

Remembering Manophet

Manophet, April 2010 Folks, we arrived in Bangkok to the saddest news. In addition to the violence outside, we have just learned that our dear friend and guide, Manophet, died in Laos yesterday of an apparent blood clot to the brain. Manophet lived in Phonsavanh, near the Plain of Jars. He was taken to Vientiane…Continue readingRemembering Manophet

Guess Who’s Coming for Dinner

A while back, I posted my account of eating for nine days in the northern Lao village of Sophoon. That was an example of what comes to the dinner table when the hosts know they have guests to feed. A few days ago, we trekked to the Hmong village of Ban Pakeo, several hours on…Continue readingGuess Who’s Coming for Dinner