The Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

I couldn’t resist. As soon as I read Nan San San Aye’s recipe for an aromatic mutton meatball curry, I knew it would be part of the next Rosi meal. Now, let’s get a couple of things straight. In Burma, “mutton balls” might very well mean goat testicle curry (which a friend recently referred to…Continue readingThe Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

The Rosi Recipes

We’re home! And we have a new member of the extended family. Meet Rosi, our darling niece. She loves to eat and burp and lots of other things—she’ll fit right into this crowd. Now, anyone out there with a 2-month-old knows the difficulty of the dinner hour. So I’ve decided to cook dinner once a…Continue readingThe Rosi Recipes

The Chip Women

This one goes out as an early birthday wish for Gary, fervent lover of The Chip. He prefers Kettle brand, but I find my favorites on Myanmar’s savory streets. We sat one afternoon in a Burmese tea shop when an old woman ran up with a plate of chips. “Here, here, eat!” We did, she…Continue readingThe Chip Women

Too Nice

We stumbled across a Burmese restaurant in Siem Reap last week. One little chezu tinbade from Jerry, and the Ancient House staff welcomed us like family. We’ve eaten there three times now, enjoying their Burmese salads, sour soups and curries. The generous woman in charge invited us for Saturday night mohinga, a tradition she and…Continue readingToo Nice

This Day of Change

A teenager stirs a pot of curry in the kitchen of a teashop in Mandalay, Myanmar, on Jan. 20, 2009. There are about 40 boys working in this teashop, all from the same rural village in Shan State. They make from $15 – $25 USD per month, working seven days a week to send the…Continue readingThis Day of Change

Thai Curry for the Weather

I’m a little behind in mentioning this, but we were still in Myanmar when this posted. Remember the Prem Organic Cooking Academy and Farm? I’m impressed with the efforts of this place near Chiang Mai, where kids from all over Asia get down-and-dirty hands-on lessons in traditional Thai kitchen techniques. The academy operates under the…Continue readingThai Curry for the Weather

Makin’ Crepes

We rise early to catch a cramped little bus to the beach. Just around the corner from the Pathein bus station is a small crepe factory with two rows of 12 griddles atop charcoal cookers. Three people work, as does an enormous mixer powered by a motor that turns a giant three-pronged blade. Black exhaust…Continue readingMakin’ Crepes

Paradise Empty

Fresh coconut juice on a quiet beach We’re chucked from the bus (in a nice way) with young men hoisting our bags up and over to the sidewalk. We’re left on a beachfront street, empty of motorized vehicles. Empty of most everything except Mr. G, who leads us to his hotel. For about $15 a…Continue readingParadise Empty


Spicy dog eyes Yangon curry We are back. It’s a short flight from Yangon to Bangkok, barely an hour, but it feels like a journey between worlds. Time jumps forward at touchdown: 9:30 a.m. in Burma is 10 a.m. in Bangkok. The former sets a pace 30 minutes askew to the rest of the region.…Continue readingReturn

Beyond the Tachileik Gate

The vast majority of travelers who cross from Mae Sai to Tachileik see little of the Myanmar side beyond the big market selling cheap music and movies (great deals) and pretty much anything else a person could possibly want from China. Indeed, most Westerners get their stamp on the Thai side, another on the Burmese…Continue readingBeyond the Tachileik Gate