Notes in the Fog

What a strange thing it is to land in one’s own country after so much absence. Travel — the movement itself — is critical to perspective. The mundane becomes extraordinary and curious and different in the fog that clouds a jet-lagged head. It takes a few days or weeks or months (or eternity, even) after…Continue readingNotes in the Fog

ASK ME! Phuket eating

I am traveling to Phuket, Thailand, this month and was wondering if you have any recommended restaurants/cafes. Thank you for your assistance, and happy eating! –Emma, Sydney Emma, I admit it’s been a while since I’ve seen Phuket. I spent a month there while working on a Fodor’s update just before the tsunami hit in…Continue readingASK ME! Phuket eating

People, People

I have never before struggled so much for words. Accurate words, fitting words. After a day of traipsing the streets, I sit alone on a vast king-sized bed. It’s quiet inside, but the noise persists outside my window. I have showered, I still stink, my nose blows pure black. Yet my heart slows and a…Continue readingPeople, People

A Day Alone at Doi Angkhang

Something I’ve been holding onto for a long time… (Jerry wasn’t on this trip, so photos are courtesy of my unprofessional eye.) Sunset at Doi Angkhang I’m in the far northern hills of Thailand, near the border with Burma’s Shan State. This land goes up and down, in steep terrain that villagers climb by foot…Continue readingA Day Alone at Doi Angkhang


I had these memories of Bangkok: A cramped little passageway behind shops, between homes. Sticky-hot air rich with Indian spices. Little bridges over a murky canal. Sikhs drinking tea. Nepalis watching TV. Tiny restaurants with blue walls. Chapatis. Curry. Dhal. It’s Pahurat, Bangkok’s Little India, established at the end of the 19th century when a…Continue readingPahurat


I’ve been putting my office in order, unpacking boxes of files and notebooks from years past. I came across a tattered journal with a pink cardboard cover; it holds some of my initial impressions of Cambodia in early 1998, shortly after moving to the country. On Jan. 24, I wrote about our first meal at…Continue readingReminiscing

A Cookbook for the Ages

Where, where, where do the months go? Seems like just a few weeks ago we had our 4th of July hotdogs in Borneo, and now the 4th of July is upon us again. You know all the sayings about the speed of time as we age—and I am most assuredly growing older—so here we are…Continue readingA Cookbook for the Ages

Fridge, No Frills

The fridge is in. We’ll have to unplug it when we lay the new flooring, but it’s here, it works and it offers a beckoning light. I’m a bit tardy on this one, but food bloggers around the world have, in the past couple of months, opened their refrigerator doors to reveal their uncensored contents.…Continue readingFridge, No Frills

Signs Point Southwest

Chaco Culture National Historical Park Heading to New Mexico this week! Finally, finally, finally. Got this little bit of news from Albuquerque the other day: Hi guys, It’s 73 degrees. The sky is crystal clear. There’s a light wind. We have all the windows open. We can see hundreds of miles to the snow covered…Continue readingSigns Point Southwest

Archaeology in the Kelabit Highlands

Our guides, Sylvester and Tony, with hunting dog on a Kelabit trail Remember the pig chase? If you’ve been a reader here for a while, you may recall the story of a wild-boar hunt in the Kelabit Highlands of Sarawak. This wasn’t the entire story. What I didn’t tell you at the time was the…Continue readingArchaeology in the Kelabit Highlands