Old Coffins, Hot Noodles

Remember, around New Year’s, I mentioned an archaeological mission to see ancient log coffins in northern Thailand? Quite a trip, that was. The article is out in this month’s Archaeology. And while the story covers the history and scientific significance of this rocky terrain up near the Burmese border, it doesn’t say much of the…Continue readingOld Coffins, Hot Noodles

The Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

I couldn’t resist. As soon as I read Nan San San Aye’s recipe for an aromatic mutton meatball curry, I knew it would be part of the next Rosi meal. Now, let’s get a couple of things straight. In Burma, “mutton balls” might very well mean goat testicle curry (which a friend recently referred to…Continue readingThe Rosi Recipes #2: Burmese Mutton Balls

Travels with the Tooting Guides

I love the light in London this time of year. What a switch from Southeast Asia, where the sun follows a rather set clock, year-round, with few leisurely sunsets. In torrid climes, the ball falls below the horizon and suddenly it’s night. But at 51 degrees north, in May and June, you get long, drawn-out…Continue readingTravels with the Tooting Guides

Long Way Home

Readers, we’re on a long, round-about journey home after 8 months away. I won’t be posting for a few days, but when we return to our own house, our own bed, our own kitchen, I will take you through Hong Kong, London and points beyond. But far more important is the news coming out of…Continue readingLong Way Home


Lots of links this week. Here’s the food angle.Continue readingLink

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: Arrested and Deported

We’ve been fielding calls and emails from around the world. Below is our official press release regarding our arrest and deportation: Monday, May 11, 2009 BANGKOK—The two of us were detained in Mandalay on the evening of Wednesday, May 6, and deported to Bangkok the following night. The arrest came within hours after we had…Continue readingFOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: Arrested and Deported

Too Nice

We stumbled across a Burmese restaurant in Siem Reap last week. One little chezu tinbade from Jerry, and the Ancient House staff welcomed us like family. We’ve eaten there three times now, enjoying their Burmese salads, sour soups and curries. The generous woman in charge invited us for Saturday night mohinga, a tradition she and…Continue readingToo Nice


Spicy dog eyes Yangon curry We are back. It’s a short flight from Yangon to Bangkok, barely an hour, but it feels like a journey between worlds. Time jumps forward at touchdown: 9:30 a.m. in Burma is 10 a.m. in Bangkok. The former sets a pace 30 minutes askew to the rest of the region.…Continue readingReturn

The Garlic Difference

Garlic vendor, Kengtung market, Shan State Do you see these garlic bunches? This isn’t the garlic typically found in American markets. You know what I’m talking about—big, fat Chinese garlic, often sold in little net bags, five heads for a dollar (at least that was the going rate in New Mexico when we left). Cheap.…Continue readingThe Garlic Difference

Menu for Hope V

It’s a striking land, Shan State. Just across the northern border of Thailand lies a different world; a landscape steeped in beauty, a people with histories worth reading. And tea. Fine, sweet, glorious green tea. When my Burmese students took me to dinner last month and I asked the origin of the tea on our…Continue readingMenu for Hope V